What this checklist is for
For technicians or other people who are buying a used light duty car in the U.S., it's like a walkthrough of the process. Fill out the information on the screen and download your results either as a CSV or PDF.
Numbers that appear on this form come from 49 CFR Part 570 (in-use inspection standards), NHTSA TireWise (2/32 inch tread), ASE G1 task lists, and AAA used-car walkaround advice. The FTC used-car pages cover dealer Buyers Guide and independent inspection, not this sheet's layout.
What it is not
- It is not a shop lift pre-purchase inspection. Pad thickness to 1/32 inch under 570.5 needs a wheel off. Mark those looks for a shop PPI.
- It is not a CMV pre-trip and not a state inspection-sticker form.
- It is not a bill of sale, a title, or the federal odometer disclosure. Mileage at transfer is 49 CFR 580.5 on the title or a separate 580 form.
- It is not the FTC Used Car Rule Buyers Guide. That window sticker is a dealer duty under 16 CFR Part 455, not a typical private-party sheet.
How to fill each block
It include the listing details and the list of stations that was visited. It also provides a mark for OK, Defect, or N/A, along with a more detailed description of any defect. Finally, it give a recommendation to walk away, shop around for a PPI, keep going, or try to negotiate down.
Body, glass, tires and brakes. Walk in daylight on level ground. Passenger-vehicle tread is not safe at 2/32 inch remaining (570.9; NHTSA penny test / wear bars). Structural rust-through and flood silt are walk-away items until a shop PPI says otherwise. State windshield-chip rules vary; a crack in the driver view is a defect on this walkthrough even if a sticker might still pass.
First, write down the car information. Don’t get it from the text in the ad; get it from the plate on the dash and the title: VIN, Year, Make, Model. Odometer miles and asking price is listed info, which means they’re facts. If the seller is open to letting you get an independent shop’s opinion before handing over your money, then that’s also a fact. This matches advice from AAA and the FTC.
Check electronics, transmission and engine: Prefer a cold engine. Any check-engine, ABS or airbag light that stays on are a defect. Don't pop the cover off an airbag! If one has been deployed, NHTSA urges used-car shoppers to run a history report and get the airbags inspected.
Paperwork. Title in the seller's name, brand (salvage, flood, rebuilt), VIN match on title / dash / door, odometer vs title miles, NMVTIS at vehiclehistory.gov, and open NHTSA recalls. 580.5 uses whole miles, not tenths, with actual / exceeds-limits / not-actual certifications.
If allowed by the seller and legal to do so, take it for a test drive without the radio. Mix in some high speed, some slow speed, a bump or two. Use a standard 570.5(d)(2) prepared surface at 20 mph (25-foot stop. Don't consider a parking lot stop to be such a test.
What varies
Fill out the sign-off area with your recommendation and any defect found. Check the shop-PPI box when that inspection is done or scheduled before money changes hands.
Odometer disclosure exemptions (vehicle age, GVWR) are in 49 CFR 580.17. Do not skip the paperwork station because you think a vehicle is "old enough" unless that exemption actually applies.
State law governs rules regarding inspection stickers, warranties, as-is sales and title brands. Flood and salvage brands is shown on the title. According to NHTSA, a car can be flooded and later recieve a rebuilt or even a clean title. Federal title history is maintained in the database called NMVTIS, though it is never a replacement for viewing the paper title.
After you finish
One caveat: If the seller is a dealer instead of a private individual, then there is a different set of rules based off the Buyer’s Guide requirement. This walkthrough applies equally to both types of listings, but without replacing the Guide itself.
Want a printable PDF version? Download away, just keep this browser tab open. It will remember the answers until you reload or go to another page, and the new person who use it will get a blank one.
A "no defects" walk is not a purchase decision: Even with AAA's advice, the organization (and the FTC) still points buyers to an independent shop inspection before you pay. Bring the PDF with you to the shop. The form sits above this story. A preview image and a printable PDF follow the form.
Not a substitute for the OEM or a licensed inspection
This is not legal advice, nor does it replace a licensed inspection nor any OEM procedure for your particular vehicle. Please do not make up pass/fail numbers for alignment or wheel lining, as these is not measured by this driveway walk.