Fillable checklist

Used Car Inspection Checklist: Buyer Walkthrough (Free Printable PDF)

Fillable used-car walkthrough: vehicle and seller, body, glass, tires and brakes, engine, transmission, electronics, test drive, and paperwork. Print blank or save a filled PDF.

Inspections Fillable form · 10 sections · 92 checks Download filled or blank PDF and CSV Cross-checked against NHTSA 570, TireWise, ASE G1 and AAA · Last verified Aug 31, 2026

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Form details

Vehicle and seller

Identify this listing before you walk it. US light-duty default. This is a buyer or tech walkthrough of one vehicle for sale, not a shop lift PPI and not a CMV pre-trip.

16 fields
Vehicle and seller

Inspection station

Body and rust

Walk the vehicle in daylight on level ground. Mark N/A if a row does not apply. Structural rust-through and flood silt are walk-away items until a shop PPI confirms otherwise.

12 items
Body and rust

Panel gaps and alignment

Sight down each panel. Uneven gaps, a high or low fender, or a door that sits proud can mean prior collision repair (AAA).

Panel gaps and alignment: OK, Defect, N/A

Paint match and overspray

Color and gloss should match across panels. Overspray in door jambs, in the engine bay, or on trim can hide accident work (AAA).

Paint match and overspray: OK, Defect, N/A

Dents, dings, and scratches

Note body damage that will cost to repair. Cosmetic harm is not a federal fail, but it is a price and care signal (AAA).

Dents, dings, and scratches: OK, Defect, N/A

Blistered paint and bubbling rust

Blistered paint can hide rust underneath. Check lower doors, fenders, and around trim (AAA).

Blistered paint and bubbling rust: OK, Defect, N/A

Wheel wells and fender liners

Look for rust scale, patched holes, and caked mud that does not match the rest of the car (AAA; NHTSA flood tips).

Wheel wells and fender liners: OK, Defect, N/A

Rocker panels and sills

Rocker rust is a common structural weak point. Probe gently for soft metal. Do not punch through panels.

Rocker panels and sills: OK, Defect, N/A

Undercarriage rust

Look under the vehicle for unusual rust for the age and climate, fresh undercoating, or repaired sections. NHTSA flood guidance flags unusual underside rust (AAA; NHTSA flood).

Undercarriage rust: OK, Defect, N/A

Visible frame or unibody rails

Look for kinks, wrinkled metal, fresh welds, or rust-through on rails you can see without a lift. A shop PPI on a lift is the place to confirm hidden rail damage.

Visible frame or unibody rails: OK, Defect, N/A

Hood, doors, and trunk operation

Each closure should open, close, and latch without slamming. Misaligned striker plates often follow bodywork.

Hood, doors, and trunk operation: OK, Defect, N/A

Bumpers and covers

Check for cracked covers, loose absorbers, and paint that does not match adjacent panels.

Bumpers and covers: OK, Defect, N/A

Flood silt, mud, and waterlines

Look for mud or silt in odd places: under the hood, in body cavities, and along hidden seams. NHTSA warns scammers clean flood cars so they look fine at first glance.

Flood silt, mud, and waterlines: OK, Defect, N/A

Trunk, spare well, and cargo floor

Lift the trunk floor. Check the spare well for water staining, rust, or dried mud (NHTSA flood; AAA water damage).

Trunk, spare well, and cargo floor: OK, Defect, N/A

Inspection station

Glass and wipers

State windshield-chip rules vary. A crack in the driver view is a defect on this walkthrough even if a state sticker might still pass.

8 items
Glass and wipers

Windshield

Inspect for cracks, large chips, and bullseyes in the sweep area (AAA).

Windshield: OK, Defect, N/A

Side glass

Look for cracks, cloudy laminate, and windows that do not sit flush in the channels.

Side glass: OK, Defect, N/A

Rear glass and defroster grid

Check for cracks and a broken defroster grid. Mark N/A if there is no rear defroster.

Rear glass and defroster grid: OK, Defect, N/A

Interior and exterior mirrors

Mirrors present, glass intact, housings secure, and they adjust (ASE G1 lamps and lenses; AAA lights/mirrors).

Interior and exterior mirrors: OK, Defect, N/A

Wiper arms and blades

Arms secure. Blades not torn. Wipers sweep the glass (ASE G1 F.22).

Wiper arms and blades: OK, Defect, N/A

Windshield washers

Washers spray the glass. Reservoir not empty so you can test (ASE G1 F.22).

Windshield washers: OK, Defect, N/A

Sunroof or panoramic glass

If equipped, glass not cracked, drain not obviously clogged, panel opens and latches. Mark N/A if not equipped.

Sunroof or panoramic glass: OK, Defect, N/A

View obstructions

Illegal stickers or damage that block the driver view. A required inspection sticker is not a defect.

View obstructions: OK, Defect, N/A

Inspection station

Tires and brakes

NHTSA TireWise and 49 CFR 570.9 both use 2/32 inch remaining tread on passenger vehicles. Pad and lining thickness to 1/32 inch needs a wheel-off look (570.5) and belongs on a shop PPI, not this driveway walk.

14 items
Tires and brakes

Tread depth (all four)

Tires are not safe and should be replaced at 2/32 inch. Wear bars in two adjacent major grooves at three spots around the tire, or the penny test: if you see the top of Lincoln's head, replace (NHTSA TireWise; 49 CFR 570.9).

Tread depth (all four): OK, Defect, N/A

Uneven tread wear

Shoulder wear, center wear, or inner/outer mismatch can mean alignment, inflation, or suspension problems (AAA; ASE G1 D.51).

Uneven tread wear: OK, Defect, N/A

Size and construction match

Tires on the same axle matched in size designation, construction, and profile. Major mismatch from the door-jamb placard is a 570.9 rejection item.

Size and construction match: OK, Defect, N/A

Sidewall and carcass damage

No chunking, bumps, knots, or bulges. Cord or belt not exposed in cuts (49 CFR 570.9; NHTSA TireWise).

Sidewall and carcass damage: OK, Defect, N/A

Inflation vs door placard

Cold pressure from the Tire and Loading Information label on the driver door, not the max psi on the tire sidewall. Include the spare (NHTSA TireWise).

Inflation vs door placard: OK, Defect, N/A

DOT date code

Read the week/year on the sidewall. NHTSA notes some manufacturers recommend replacement around six years regardless of tread. That is an OEM recommendation, not a federal Pass/Fail (AAA also flags age).

DOT date code: OK, Defect, N/A

Spare and TPMS lamp

Spare present and usable, or the OEM inflator kit complete. TPMS lamp should not stay on after start (ASE G1 D.58; NHTSA TireWise).

Spare and TPMS lamp: OK, Defect, N/A

Wheels and lug nuts

No visible cracks, elongated bolt holes, or welded repairs. All wheel nuts and bolts in place and tight (49 CFR 570.10).

Wheels and lug nuts: OK, Defect, N/A

Wheel and suspension play

Grab each tire at the top and rock it. A lot of movement or a clunk can mean worn wheel or suspension parts (AAA). 49 CFR 570.7 linkage play of 1/4 inch is a lifted-front measurement, not a driveway number.

Wheel and suspension play: OK, Defect, N/A

Brake warning lamp

Apply the parking brake and turn the ignition to start, or use the OEM self-test, so the brake-system failure lamp proves it works (49 CFR 570.5(a)). Then confirm it goes out in run unless a fault exists.

Brake warning lamp: OK, Defect, N/A

Brake pedal reserve and hold

Pedal should not sink under a firm hold. 570.5 uses a 125 lb, 10-second hold and a 80 percent travel reserve on many hydraulic systems. On this walk, a sinking or floor-close pedal is a defect even if you do not measure pounds.

Brake pedal reserve and hold: OK, Defect, N/A

Visible rotors and pads

Look through the wheel: deep grooves, heavy rust lips, or pads that look nearly gone. Do not invent a driveway thickness. 49 CFR 570.5(g) lining not less than 1/32 inch is a wheel-off measurement for a shop or state inspection.

Visible rotors and pads: OK, Defect, N/A

Visible brake hoses and lines

Hoses not cracked, chafed, flattened, or rubbing the body. Master cylinder not dripping (49 CFR 570.5(e); ASE G1 E.3).

Visible brake hoses and lines: OK, Defect, N/A

Parking brake

Sets, holds on a mild grade or against a gentle pull in gear, and the dash indicator works (ASE G1 E.5 / E.15).

Parking brake: OK, Defect, N/A

Inspection station

Engine and leaks

Prefer a cold engine the seller has not idled for an hour. ASE G1 starts with leaks, noises, belts, hoses, and warning indicators. This is not a compression or leak-down test.

12 items
Engine and leaks

Start and idle (bay)

Engine starts without long cranking and idles without obvious miss. Abnormal noises are an ASE G1 look (A.3).

Start and idle (bay): OK, Defect, N/A

Engine oil level and condition

Engine off. Level between add and full. Oil should not be gritty, and gray or milky oil with water droplets is a AAA deal-breaker flag (head gasket / cracked block).

Engine oil level and condition: OK, Defect, N/A

Coolant level and appearance

Engine cool. Reservoir between add and full. Rusty, oily, or empty coolant is a defect (ASE G1 A.6). Never open a hot cap.

Coolant level and appearance: OK, Defect, N/A

Brake fluid reservoir

Level and condition, no external leak at the master cylinder (ASE G1 E.2).

Brake fluid reservoir: OK, Defect, N/A

Power steering fluid (if hydraulic)

Reservoir not empty. 49 CFR 570.7(e) rejects cracked or slipping belts and insufficient fluid. Mark N/A on electric power steering with no reservoir.

Power steering fluid (if hydraulic): OK, Defect, N/A

Coolant and vacuum hoses

Squeeze when cool: rubber firm but supple, not cracked or swollen (AAA; ASE G1 A.8).

Coolant and vacuum hoses: OK, Defect, N/A

Drive belts and tensioner

Not frayed, cracked, or glazing. Tensioner not collapsed (AAA; ASE G1 A.7; 570.7(e) for power-steering belts).

Drive belts and tensioner: OK, Defect, N/A

Under-hood leaks

Inspect the engine assembly for fuel, oil, coolant, and other leaks (ASE G1 A.2). Fresh sealer or washed-down residue is worth a note.

Under-hood leaks: OK, Defect, N/A

Puddles on the ground

Look where the car has been sitting. Identify oil, coolant, fuel, or transmission fluid if you can.

Puddles on the ground: OK, Defect, N/A

Battery, cables, and hold-down

Terminals not heavily corroded. Cables intact. Hold-down present (ASE G1 F.7 / F.9). Date code is useful; there is no federal replacement-age number.

Battery, cables, and hold-down: OK, Defect, N/A

Exhaust leaks and hangers

No audible leak at the manifold. Visible hangers, shields, and pipe not broken where you can see them without crawling under (ASE G1 A.17).

Exhaust leaks and hangers: OK, Defect, N/A

Engine-related warning lamps

At key-on, lamps prove they work, then go out after start unless a fault exists (ASE G1 A.13; AAA dashboard lights).

Engine-related warning lamps: OK, Defect, N/A

Inspection station

Transmission

Static looks here. Shift quality on the road is the test-drive section. Mark N/A on items the vehicle does not have (no dipstick, CVT sealed, no transfer case).

8 items
Transmission

Transmission fluid (if accessible)

Determine type, level, and condition per ASE G1 B.2. Burnt smell, dark varnish, or metal flake is a defect. Many modern units have no dipstick: mark N/A and rely on leaks plus the road test.

Transmission fluid (if accessible): OK, Defect, N/A

Transmission case and cooler lines

Inspect for leaks and rusty or wet cooler lines (ASE G1 B.3 / B.5).

Transmission case and cooler lines: OK, Defect, N/A

CV boots, axles, and drive shafts

Boots not torn. No grease flung in the wheel well. U-joints and axle seals not obviously wet (ASE G1 B.4).

CV boots, axles, and drive shafts: OK, Defect, N/A

Powertrain mounts (visible)

No collapsed or separated mount you can see from the bay or wheel well (ASE G1 B.6).

Powertrain mounts (visible): OK, Defect, N/A

Park and reverse engagement

In a safe area, reverse lights come on and the vehicle moves without a long delay. Harsh bang into gear is a defect to recheck on the road test.

Park and reverse engagement: OK, Defect, N/A

Clutch and shifter (manual)

If equipped: pedal reserve, no slip on a gentle launch, shifter selects gears, starter does not crank in gear (ASE G1 C). Mark N/A on automatics.

Clutch and shifter (manual): OK, Defect, N/A

4WD / AWD (if equipped)

Mode switch or lever works. No warning lamp. Tires the same size on AWD/4WD (ASE G1 C.20 / C.22). Mark N/A if two-wheel drive only.

4WD / AWD (if equipped): OK, Defect, N/A

Transmission warning lamp

Lamp should not stay on after start. AAA treats a stay-on transmission lamp as a red flag.

Transmission warning lamp: OK, Defect, N/A

Inspection station

Electronics

Operate every control you will pay for. AAA says test HVAC, radio, windows, locks, and seats. ASE G1 covers lamps, gauges, horn, wipers, HVAC, and the airbag lamp.

12 items
Electronics

Dash lamp bulb-check

At key-on, warning lamps illuminate then go out after start unless a fault exists (AAA; ASE G1 F.20).

Dash lamp bulb-check: OK, Defect, N/A

Check-engine lamp

Must not stay on. A stay-on MIL is a defect even if the car 'drives fine' (AAA).

Check-engine lamp: OK, Defect, N/A

ABS, airbag, and brake lamps

These lamps prove at start, then go out. A stay-on airbag lamp needs a shop. NHTSA tells used-car buyers to get a history report and have airbags inspected after a reported deployment. Do not pry an airbag cover yourself.

ABS, airbag, and brake lamps: OK, Defect, N/A

Headlamps (low and high)

Low and high beams work. Lenses not shattered (AAA; ASE G1 F.17).

Headlamps (low and high): OK, Defect, N/A

Tail, brake, turn, and hazard lamps

Have a helper, a reflection, or a camera confirm tails, stops, turns, and 4-ways (AAA; ASE G1 F.18).

Tail, brake, turn, and hazard lamps: OK, Defect, N/A

Horn

Horn works (ASE G1 F.21).

Horn: OK, Defect, N/A

Power windows and locks

Every window and lock switch works (AAA).

Power windows and locks: OK, Defect, N/A

Seat adjustment and heaters

Power or manual adjusters work. Seat heaters and ventilation if equipped. Mark N/A if not equipped (AAA).

Seat adjustment and heaters: OK, Defect, N/A

Heat, A/C, and blower

Heat, A/C, blower speeds, and mode doors respond (ASE G1 G.1; AAA).

Heat, A/C, and blower: OK, Defect, N/A

Radio / infotainment and camera

Audio works. Backup camera displays if equipped (AAA electronics).

Radio / infotainment and camera: OK, Defect, N/A

Interior lamps and power ports

Dome, map, and visor lamps. 12V or USB ports if you will use them (ASE G1 F.18).

Interior lamps and power ports: OK, Defect, N/A

Gauges and odometer display

Speedo, fuel, temp, and the odometer display work. Compare this reading to the header miles (ASE G1 F.20; NHTSA odometer).

Gauges and odometer display: OK, Defect, N/A

Inspection station

Test drive

Radio off. Mix of low speed, a bump, and highway if it is legal and the seller allows it. 49 CFR 570.5(d)(2) is a 20 mph stop in 25 feet on a prepared surface for state inspection. Do not treat that as a parking-lot Pass/Fail you must measure.

12 items
Test drive

Launch and idle in drive

Moves off smoothly. Idle in drive or reverse does not stall (AAA starting up).

Launch and idle in drive: OK, Defect, N/A

Acceleration

No hesitation, misfire, or limp mode. Unusual engine noises with the radio off (AAA; ASE G1 A.3).

Acceleration: OK, Defect, N/A

Transmission shift quality

Automatic: firm, on-time shifts, no flare or slip. Manual: no grind, clutch does not slip (AAA; ASE G1 B.1).

Transmission shift quality: OK, Defect, N/A

Steering and tracking

On a straight, level road the car should not drift. Binding or a crooked wheel is a defect (AAA; ASE G1 D.42). 570.7 lash table is a shop measurement.

Steering and tracking: OK, Defect, N/A

Brake pull, noise, and delay

No pull, grind, or long delay (AAA). Squeal can be wear. Grind is a defect.

Brake pull, noise, and delay: OK, Defect, N/A

Service brake stop feel

Firm, controllable stop from a modest speed in a safe place. Do not attempt a 20 mph / 25 ft certification stop in traffic. That figure is 49 CFR 570.5(d)(2) for state inspection equipment.

Service brake stop feel: OK, Defect, N/A

Ride over bumps

Listen for clunks. AAA bounce test: push a corner; 49 CFR 570.8 says the vehicle shall not keep rocking more than two cycles, and shocks shall not be wet with oil.

Ride over bumps: OK, Defect, N/A

Vibration or shimmy

No shake in the wheel or seat that grows with speed (ASE G1 D.54).

Vibration or shimmy: OK, Defect, N/A

Highway or higher-speed run

If allowed: holds speed, tracks, and stays cool. Mark N/A if the seller only permits a lot loop.

Highway or higher-speed run: OK, Defect, N/A

Parking brake on a grade

Holds without rolling on a mild grade, then releases fully with no drag (ASE G1 E.15).

Parking brake on a grade: OK, Defect, N/A

Driveline noises

No howl, click on turns (CV), or clunk on throttle tip-in (ASE G1 C.6).

Driveline noises: OK, Defect, N/A

Pedal, wheel, and seat wear vs miles

NHTSA odometer-fraud tips: gas, brake, and clutch pedal wear should look consistent with the miles on the odometer.

Pedal, wheel, and seat wear vs miles: OK, Defect, N/A

Inspection station

Paperwork

This is not a bill of sale. Title brands, odometer disclosure, and 'as is' rules vary by state. Federal odometer disclosure is 49 CFR 580.

14 items
Paperwork

Title in the seller's name

Ask to see the title. A seller who is not on the title is a stop until that is explained (AAA red flags).

Title in the seller's name: OK, Defect, N/A

Title brand (salvage, flood, rebuilt)

Read the brand. NHTSA: totaled flood cars often get salvage or flood titles, then rebuilt titles. Beware 'clean' or 'lost' titles on flood cars. NMVTIS at vehiclehistory.gov traces title history.

Title brand (salvage, flood, rebuilt): OK, Defect, N/A

VIN match (title, dash, door)

17-character VIN on the lower driver windshield, the driver-door label, and the title must match (NHTSA recalls / VIN location; AAA).

VIN match (title, dash, door): OK, Defect, N/A

Odometer vs title disclosure

Compare the dash miles to the miles on the title. NHTSA: examine the title closely if the mileage looks obscured. 49 CFR 580.5 requires the transferor to disclose miles (not tenths) on the title at transfer, with an actual / exceeds-limits / not-actual certification.

Odometer vs title disclosure: OK, Defect, N/A

Odometer disclosure still required?

MY 2011 and newer: federal disclosure for 20 years after Jan 1 of the model year (49 CFR 580.17). MY 2010 and older already use the prior 10-year exemption. GVWR over 16,000 lb is exempt. State title still matters.

Odometer disclosure still required?: OK, Defect, N/A

Service records vs miles

Compare oil-change stickers, invoices, and inspection records to the odometer (NHTSA odometer fraud; AAA maintenance records).

Service records vs miles: OK, Defect, N/A

Vehicle history report

NHTSA, FTC, and AAA all tell used-car buyers to get a history report for accidents, title brands, and odometer gaps. A report is not a mechanical inspection (FTC).

Vehicle history report: OK, Defect, N/A

NMVTIS title history

NMVTIS is the federal title system meant to flag salvage, theft, and flood brands. Start at vehiclehistory.gov. It does not list mechanical faults.

NMVTIS title history: OK, Defect, N/A

Open safety recalls

Look up the VIN at nhtsa.gov/recalls. Manufacturers generally remedy safety recalls at no charge. Federal law does not ban selling a used car with an open recall in most cases, so check yourself.

Open safety recalls: OK, Defect, N/A

Airbag deployment or salvage airbags

If the history shows a crash with airbag deployment, NHTSA says have a dealer or reputable shop inspect for genuine inflators. VIN lookup cannot show counterfeit aftermarket inflators.

Airbag deployment or salvage airbags: OK, Defect, N/A

FTC Buyers Guide (dealers)

Dealers must display a Buyers Guide on used cars offered for sale (16 CFR 455). It states as-is vs warranty. Private-party sales are not this sticker. Maine and Wisconsin use their own versions.

FTC Buyers Guide (dealers): OK, Defect, N/A

As-is vs warranty terms

If as-is, get any repair promise on the Buyers Guide in writing. Whether as-is is even allowed is state law, not a single federal rule (FTC).

As-is vs warranty terms: OK, Defect, N/A

Lien, keys, and manuals

Ask about liens. Confirm keys and fobs. Owner's manual helps you use the OEM procedure later.

Lien, keys, and manuals: OK, Defect, N/A

Independent inspection still needed

FTC: a history report is not a substitute for an independent mechanical inspection, including on CPO cars. AAA: a seller who refuses a shop visit is a major warning. This walkthrough is not that shop PPI.

Independent inspection still needed: OK, Defect, N/A

Form details

Defects and sign-off

These notes stay in this tab until you download a PDF or CSV. This form is a template, not legal advice and not a substitute for the vehicle's OEM procedure or a licensed inspection.

6 fields
Defects and sign-off

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References

  1. 49 CFR Part 570 Vehicle in Use Inspection Standards (NHTSA) - eCFR
  2. 49 CFR 570.5 Service brake system (failure lamp, pedal, hoses, linings) - eCFR
  3. 49 CFR 570.7 Steering systems (play, free turning, power steering fluid and belts) - eCFR
  4. 49 CFR 570.8 Suspension systems (condition and two-cycle shock check) - eCFR
  5. 49 CFR 570.9 Tires (2/32 inch tread, match, damage) - eCFR
  6. 49 CFR 570.10 Wheel assemblies (cracks, fasteners) - eCFR
  7. NHTSA TireWise: tire tread 2/32 inch, penny test, placard inflation, spare
  8. NHTSA Odometer Fraud: used-car buyer tips (title miles, records, pedal wear, history report)
  9. NHTSA Hurricane- and Flood-Damaged Vehicles (salvage/flood titles, NMVTIS, silt and rust)
  10. NHTSA Check for Recalls (VIN lookup, windshield VIN location)
  11. NHTSA Deadly Air Bag Inflator Replacements: used-car history and shop inspection
  12. 49 CFR 580.5 Disclosure of odometer information - eCFR
  13. 49 CFR 580.17 Odometer disclosure exemptions (20-year / 10-year / GVWR) - eCFR
  14. FTC Buying a Used Car From a Dealer (Buyers Guide, independent inspection, as-is)
  15. FTC Used Car Rule, 16 CFR Part 455 (dealer Buyers Guide)
  16. AAA Club Alliance: What To Look For When Buying A Used Car
  17. AAA Auto Club Group: The Insider's Used Car Buying Guide (walkaround and test drive)
  18. AAA Auto Club Group: Used Car Red Flags You Should Never Ignore
  19. ASE Automobile Maintenance and Light Repair (G1) Official Study Guide task list
  20. NMVTIS / vehiclehistory.gov: National Motor Vehicle Title Information System

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These checklists are provided for general reference only. Always verify the steps against the vehicle manufacturer's service information, your shop's procedures or a qualified technician before relying on them, especially for safety-critical work.

What this checklist is for

For technicians or other people who are buying a used light duty car in the U.S., it's like a walkthrough of the process. Fill out the information on the screen and download your results either as a CSV or PDF.

Numbers that appear on this form come from 49 CFR Part 570 (in-use inspection standards), NHTSA TireWise (2/32 inch tread), ASE G1 task lists, and AAA used-car walkaround advice. The FTC used-car pages cover dealer Buyers Guide and independent inspection, not this sheet's layout.

What it is not

  • It is not a shop lift pre-purchase inspection. Pad thickness to 1/32 inch under 570.5 needs a wheel off. Mark those looks for a shop PPI.
  • It is not a CMV pre-trip and not a state inspection-sticker form.
  • It is not a bill of sale, a title, or the federal odometer disclosure. Mileage at transfer is 49 CFR 580.5 on the title or a separate 580 form.
  • It is not the FTC Used Car Rule Buyers Guide. That window sticker is a dealer duty under 16 CFR Part 455, not a typical private-party sheet.

How to fill each block

It include the listing details and the list of stations that was visited. It also provides a mark for OK, Defect, or N/A, along with a more detailed description of any defect. Finally, it give a recommendation to walk away, shop around for a PPI, keep going, or try to negotiate down.

Body, glass, tires and brakes. Walk in daylight on level ground. Passenger-vehicle tread is not safe at 2/32 inch remaining (570.9; NHTSA penny test / wear bars). Structural rust-through and flood silt are walk-away items until a shop PPI says otherwise. State windshield-chip rules vary; a crack in the driver view is a defect on this walkthrough even if a sticker might still pass.

First, write down the car information. Don’t get it from the text in the ad; get it from the plate on the dash and the title: VIN, Year, Make, Model. Odometer miles and asking price is listed info, which means they’re facts. If the seller is open to letting you get an independent shop’s opinion before handing over your money, then that’s also a fact. This matches advice from AAA and the FTC.

Check electronics, transmission and engine: Prefer a cold engine. Any check-engine, ABS or airbag light that stays on are a defect. Don't pop the cover off an airbag! If one has been deployed, NHTSA urges used-car shoppers to run a history report and get the airbags inspected.

Paperwork. Title in the seller's name, brand (salvage, flood, rebuilt), VIN match on title / dash / door, odometer vs title miles, NMVTIS at vehiclehistory.gov, and open NHTSA recalls. 580.5 uses whole miles, not tenths, with actual / exceeds-limits / not-actual certifications.

If allowed by the seller and legal to do so, take it for a test drive without the radio. Mix in some high speed, some slow speed, a bump or two. Use a standard 570.5(d)(2) prepared surface at 20 mph (25-foot stop. Don't consider a parking lot stop to be such a test.

What varies

Fill out the sign-off area with your recommendation and any defect found. Check the shop-PPI box when that inspection is done or scheduled before money changes hands.

Odometer disclosure exemptions (vehicle age, GVWR) are in 49 CFR 580.17. Do not skip the paperwork station because you think a vehicle is "old enough" unless that exemption actually applies.

State law governs rules regarding inspection stickers, warranties, as-is sales and title brands. Flood and salvage brands is shown on the title. According to NHTSA, a car can be flooded and later recieve a rebuilt or even a clean title. Federal title history is maintained in the database called NMVTIS, though it is never a replacement for viewing the paper title.

After you finish

One caveat: If the seller is a dealer instead of a private individual, then there is a different set of rules based off the Buyer’s Guide requirement. This walkthrough applies equally to both types of listings, but without replacing the Guide itself.

Want a printable PDF version? Download away, just keep this browser tab open. It will remember the answers until you reload or go to another page, and the new person who use it will get a blank one.

A "no defects" walk is not a purchase decision: Even with AAA's advice, the organization (and the FTC) still points buyers to an independent shop inspection before you pay. Bring the PDF with you to the shop. The form sits above this story. A preview image and a printable PDF follow the form.

Not a substitute for the OEM or a licensed inspection

This is not legal advice, nor does it replace a licensed inspection nor any OEM procedure for your particular vehicle. Please do not make up pass/fail numbers for alignment or wheel lining, as these is not measured by this driveway walk.